Show us what your adapted lens looks like on your camera

ex machina

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Compared to this, which is only 490 grams, and which you can pick up as low as $20 or so?

Exactly. I picked up one of those and a 50mm ƒ3.5 macro for $15 each. I've used the macro -- It's awesome -- but I still need to take out the diminutive 200. I'm also keeping an eye out for a Canon FD 200/4 which is larger, but I have some treasured photos I took with it back in the day before I let it get run over by a bunch of cars while attached to my AE-1...

I do imagine a 300/2.8 would be tricky to nail focus on a manual lens. ;)
 

Bytesmiths

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I do imagine a 300/2.8 would be tricky to nail focus on a manual lens.
Y'mean, like this?
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Actually, that was with a 1.4 teleconverter, for an effective 500mm ƒ/4. And I cheated by using a monopod. :)
 

tonyturley

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GX9 + Pen F 38mm f1.8

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soundfanz

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Olympus EM1 MK 2 and Carl Zeiss Vario Sonnar T 80-200 f4. MMJ version
680 grams of manual goodness.
I haven't used it much so far, but have found it best stopped down to about 5.6
I actually like the push/pull method of moving between focal lengths.

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soundfanz

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I have not tried an adapted zoom yet.

How do you enter it into the camera for IBIS purposes? Or do you just not bother with IBIS?

I just set the focal length that I use the most via the SCP. Not ideal as I am always zooming in or out. With the CZ 80-200 I set it at 180 when fitting to camera, and don't change it.
 

Bytesmiths

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I just set the focal length that I use the most via the SCP. Not ideal as I am always zooming in or out. With the CZ 80-200 I set it at 180 when fitting to camera, and don't change it.
Do you find that IBIS works well with this strategy? Or have you had a chance to really see?

Pictures I've accidentally taken with the wrong focal length entered often show more motion blur than expected.
 

alex g

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A method that I've found to work quite well with manual zooms is to add a separate Lens Info entry for each significant focal length, and assign Lens Info to a Fn button. It takes a little bit of patience to initially enter the data, but once it's there it's easy to select the most appropriate value as required by pressing the button and turning one of the dials:

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Frustratingly, Lens Info data isn't included when saving camera settings to a computer, otherwise it would be possible to create a database of values for multiple lenses and load the data appropriate to the lens you're about to use. It's one of those examples of Olympus responding positively to customer feedback, but not really thinking the thing through enough to make the feature fully useful. :doh:

Still, it's better than nothing! :)
 

Bytesmiths

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A method that I've found to work quite well with manual zooms is to add a separate Lens Info entry for each significant focal length, and assign Lens Info to a Fn button.

Yes! I have the Lens Info assigned to the top front button. But I have a lot of legacy glass, and I have 1.4 and 2.0 tele-extenders, and a 0.7 focal reducer, and I use up the ten slots with just a few lenses!

Lens Info data isn't included when saving camera settings to a computer, otherwise it would be possible to create a database of values for multiple lenses and load the data appropriate to the lens you're about to use.

What I would really like — and what I've suggested to Olympus engineers — is a bottomless list, sorted by last use, so your most-used choices are at the top of the list. Alas, I don't think Olympus's highest priority is making it easier to get by without buying new lenses.

My second choice would be hacking the firmware to change the ten-slot limit to something like 50. But that takes time that I don't have.
 

soundfanz

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I'm not sure why, but my manual lenses don't seem to play as well on my Pen F as they do on my EM1 MKII. Settings are quite similar, but images look off a little on the Pen F. Not a problem though as my Pen F is primarily my street set-up and I use my smaller lens with it. I normally use Panny 12-32, Oly 17 & Oly 45 1.8's and also carry the Oly 75mm 1.8. This Contax CZ Distagon 28 2.8 is small enough to include with the Pen F kit, and it fills a focal length between 17 and 45mm.

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Danny.

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Posted the 800mm already, but again and a few more

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Canon FD 300 F/2.8L on the G2 which is long gone and now used on the E-M1, E-M1 II



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Canon FD 800 F/5.6L on the E-M10



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Sigma 500 F/4.5 APO on the old G2



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Canon FL-F 500 F.5,6 Fluorite on the G2. Best built lens I've ever seen.



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Canon FD 500 F/4.5L. Used 90% of the time. Beautiful balance, wonderful internal focus, smooth and easy to use. Sharp as a tack. If I could have only one lens, that's it.



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It's what happens when a Sigma decides to eat your camera.

All the best folks and a theme going on there for sure.

Danny.
 

JayZay87

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I recently joined the M4/3 club and was quick to adapted some of my favorite manual focus lenses: Re Auto Topcor 25mm f3.5 and SMC Pentax 50mm F1.4.
The Topcor was actually a thrift store find many years ago; after doing a small repair to the aperture ring (which wasn't working), it's been a joy to use and the image quality is fascinating for the age of the lens. The close focusing distance is pretty amazing too and almost doubles as a macro lens :biggrin:
The Pentax 50mm 1.4 has been primarily used with extension tubes for macro work in low light, and serves very well for that, though the depth of field is so thin wide open it makes it a slow operation.
Both lenses have been adapted via Fotasy adapters.
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Bytesmiths

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Hey, fellow islander! (I have relatives on Lopez that I have to go through Friday Harbour in order to visit.)

The Topcor… close focusing distance is pretty amazing too and almost doubles as a macro lens :biggrin:
The Pentax 50mm 1.4 has been primarily used with extension tubes for macro work…
Have you tried using a reversing adapter?

In the film days, that was a cheap way of doing macro with standard 50mm lenses. The theory is that they are designed to be sharp with the back end of the lens fairly close to the film, so reversing them puts the back end about the same distance from the subject. (This "theory" sorta ignores that the objective end of the lens is still "looking at" the film at a fairly short distance, though.)
 

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